Nice little write-up at The Inertia.
The guy is talking about huge breaks and crazy stuff. Not my speed. Perhaps for rhetorical effect.
That’s what makes this sport so great: you don’t need a particular technique to make it work, you don’t need to be really strong, or very fit, or even very young…as long as you have a pair of fins (and Speedos if you fancy) and you can successfully ride the wave. Then you are bodysurfing. It is the purest form of wave riding, and what a ride it is.
By the way, please check out the movie Come Hell or High Water. It’s a beautifully produced documentary on bodysurfing.
Real Bodysurfers
FRIDAY JUNE 22, 2012
Kenji Croman
